BUSH RIDE

Dual Sporting Down Under

Last summer, when I made my first contact via e-mail with a company running off-road tours in Australia, I never imagined I would spend an entire day in Australia riding in the rain and enjoying it.  Actually I had wanted to ride in the rainforests of Australia's east coast, but not in rainy rainforests.  It had not rained in central California for almost nine months and riding in the rain is not something we do very often (except recently because of el nino).  Most often, rain in California is accompanied by cool/cold temperatures  Yet there I was, along with three new mates (friends), thoroughly enjoying a wet, muddy dual sport ride.

The trip came about because my wife, Colleen, wanted to meet her mother's relatives in Australia.  Her mother had been a war bride in 1945 and moved to the U.S.  She now goes over to Brisbane, Queensland each year to visit with her brother and cousins and this year we decided to accompany her.   

I did not relish the thought of a three week holiday (vacation) without riding a bike, so two months before we departed I checked the ads in the back of American Motorcyclist.  There I found one for Australian Motorcycle Adventures, a company located in Brisbane which offered off-road tours.  After an exchange of e-mails, I learned that they did not have a short tour planned during our holiday.  I e-mailed back asking if they could perhaps find a local dirt rider who could take me for a ride.  Actually I asked them to find someone who would like to take some "fresh meat" out for a pounding on their favorite trails.  They responded that they would check around for me but as our departure date drew closer I had heard nothing from them.

On a whim, I got on the Internet and located the home page for Australia Dirt Bike Sales & Spares which is located just outside Brisbane.  They are a KTM dealer that specializes in new and used parts for all makes of off-road motorcycles.  Because of the short time frame, I called directly to the owner, Ray Buchannan, and asked him to invite me to go riding with him.  He/I accepted my/his offer and we set a date for a "bush" ride.  

As it turned out, Australian Motorcycle Adventures is located in Virginia, a suburb of Brisbane, and only about 2 kilometers from where I was staying with relatives.  At the first opportunity I had, I stopped down and introduced myself to one of the owners, Ron Staines and learned about the tours they offered.  I also learned that they hired (rented) bikes, so the Saturday before the "bush" ride I hired a Yamaha TTR250 from them and rode down to Ray's shop to introduce myself and to talk over the ride he had planned.  The TTR250 is a nice, mellow, electric start, street legal four-stroke which is not imported into the U.S.

As luck would have it, we would not experience any rain either before or after the bush ride during our holiday.  The same, unfortunately, didn't hold true for the date we had set for the ride.  Initially the forecast had called for rain but was later changed to periods of rain showers.  The day actually started just misty when I caught the 5:17 AM train in north Brisbane.  By 6:30 when I reached Slacks Creek south of Brisbane it was pouring. 

Ray picked me up on time and we proceeded to his shop .  On the way, he asked if I had a problem riding in the rain to which I replied "I won't melt".  In the back of my mind though I dreaded the thought of knobby tires on wet pavement .  Actually I usually dread the thought of knobby tires on dry pavement.  You see, I am not a tar baby (road rider) and prefer dirt under my tyres (tires).

Arriving at the shop we found Ray's mate, Charles Young, already waiting.  Not wanting to impose too much on my host, I had brought my helmet, boots and riding clothes along with me but I had not brought any rain gear.  Ray was kind enough to loan me a riding jacket.  While we were changing into our gear, Dave Armstrong showed up and the rain paused long enough for a group photo.

  After some minor maintenance on the 1996 KTM 620 shop bike I was to ride (taller rear knobby for the mud), we were off into rush hour traffic and more rain showers.  After a brief stop to top off the tanks, I fell in behind Ray and followed his lines, going somewhat slower though in the roundabouts (traffic circles) than he.  I felt glad to have practiced driving on the wrong side of the road the previous Saturday. 

The KTM620 made nice power and was very smooth riding on the roads.  After about 25 kilometers (15 miles)of pavement we hit our first dirt track (trail), a muddy, rocky fireroad which took us to the top of a mountain with a fire tower and much heavier rainfall.  We retreated downhill quickly towards broken clouds and intermittent rain showers.  It was a pattern that was to repeat itself throughout the day. 

  The kilometers passed by quickly as we alternated between dirt tracks and back roads.  Ray routed us through a private rain forest preserve frequented by tourists (Ray is a friend of the owners) and then down into a lush green valley surrounded by the rainforest.  

  It was here we made our first stop for morning tea.  Our host was Dick Moriarity, a friend of Ray's family.  No sooner had we taken our helmets off, knocked the mud off of our boots and climbed onto his front porch then a severe rain shower hit.  Good timing.   

The heavy shower passed just as we finished our tea and cakes.  After thanking our host, we remounted and proceeded to traverse several more ridge tops and valleys as we meandered through the bush.  Not far from Ray's parents farm we went cow trailing through a neighbors pastures, a real test of riding ability in the mud and wet grass.  Second gear/slip the clutch starts or you were mired.  

We eventually climbed to a scenic overlook  where Ray pointed out the site of Australia's first commercial airplane crash in a rugged valley above his family's farm.  His grandfather and father were members of the rescue party that brought out one survivor.  He then got out his cell phone and arranged with his mum (mom) to meet us with some gas. 

  (Looking up from the valley floor at the Scenic overlook we had climbed)

Back down the hill, more cow trails and dirt tracks led to fast, fun dirt road towards the family farm where his mum, sister-in law and nephews met us with gas. 

After a short break, Ray led us onto the dirt tracks around the farm.  The rain had resumed, more persistent now and the trails were very muddy and challenging.  After failing in an attempt on a steep, root infested hill and not wanting to ruin the holiday with an injury, I decided to take the easy way down.  Along the way, Ray pointed out several wild wallabies ( small kangaroo type animals) watching us from a grassy hillside. 

We rode over to the farm house for afternoon tea and as soon as we were under cover the heavens opened up.  Good timing once again!  Along with the tea, Ray's mum served up toast with butter, honey and roast duck, what a feast!  She also brought out old photos highlighting some of the family history in the area dating back to the turn of the century. 

Eventually the rain changed to showers and it was time to make tracks towards town.  We arrived back at the shop about 5:30 PM, just ahead of a heavy rainstorm, having covered 265 kilometers (app. 160 miles).  After changing into dry clothes and having a beer (XXXX Gold Lager), Ray dropped me off at the train station...in the rain.

Cairns:  The next morning Colleen and I took a plane to Cairns (pronounced "Cans") in the north of Queensland.  Cairns is a resort area where the rainforest meets the Great Barrier Reef.  We enjoyed a week doing tourist things like snorkeling and basking in the sun on palm lined beaches.  One day we hired a Suzuki 650 dual sport from Cairns Motorcycle Adventures, a company which offers one and two day guided tours through the rainforests of Australia's northeast coast.  Colleen and I decided to take a self guided tour, two-up, traveling north through the rainforest and returning along the coast. 

  We were fortunate that it had not rained for over a week because the dirt track through the rainforest could have been very challenging if it had been muddy.  In addition to great scenery, we got to see a wallaby, at full gallop, cross the road right in front of us.  We also had a close encounter with an innocent looking vine which ripped both of our jerseys and almost pulled Colleen off the back of the bike.

 Miscellaneous:  We bought Frommer's Guide "Australia from $50 A Day" as a reference for affordable accommodations (lodging), food, and sightseeing.  We took American Express travelers checks and cashed them in at American Express offices in the major cities we visited.  We were also able to use our ATM card to withdraw cash from our bank account.  Australian National Bank is a member of the Cirrus network and our bank charged a $2.00 transaction fee for the convenience.

Should you venture Down Under, you may find it difficult at time to understand what people are saying.  While Americans and Australians both speak English but we don't speak the same language.  Here is a guide to help you translate Australian english::

Australian                   American

 G'day                          Hi, Hello, How ya do'in, etc.

mate, bloke                  buddy, pal, friend

Sorry!                          Pardon me, Excuse me

Way Out                      Exit

Return                          Round Trip

concession                    discount

accommodation            hotel/motel lodging

toilet                             restrooms, bathroom

carpark                        parking lot/parking garage

overtake                       pass another vehicle

utility/ute                       pick-up truck

caravan                        travel trailer

kicker                           kickstarter